arctic

11/28/2011 - 23:40

 

Siberian wrestlers, 1901

A problem with reconstructing diets from the past is that people often forget to fathom the amount of information and cultural diversity that has been lost. Lost to cultural change, to habitat change, or simply to nature's rising oceans or lava flows. 

Often you only have pale glimpses of what was lost in the form of archeological remains or the writings of passing travelers who probably did not realize that they were witnessing things that few can even imagine today. 

When most people today think of the arctic or an ice age, they think of people clad in skins subsisting on wooly mammoth. But the truth is that arctic peoples of the past and of today rely on a huge variety of plants as well. I have written about the excellent book called Plants That We Eat, which describes the amazing and diverse plant foods of the Inuit. Most of their plant foods were leaves and berries, but they also collect tiny roots from the stores of mice, which provide a small amount of starch.

Turns out that further-south Arctic cultures in the past probably exploited starches more extensively. In Siberia they called the starchy bulbs of flower "sarana", but as this interesting paper shows, the word probably applies to several types of flower bulbs, mainly in the Lilly (Liliaceae) family. 

Like John D. Speth's excellent book, the paper relies extensively on sources written in German, many of which have not yet been translated to English. I was already aware of the use of lily bulbs among the Native Americans of North America, but was not aware that Siberians ate them as well. 

Apparently, sarana was eaten by many Siberian tribes:  Shor, Tofalar, Tuva, Altai, Buryat, Selkup, Itelmen, Aleut, Evenki, Ket, and Khanti are mentioned in the paper. Of course, all these different peoples had very different lifestyles. Some like the Buryat and Evenki are nomadic pastoralists and others like the Itelmen and Aleut are closer to hunter-gatherers. Use of sarana varied in different regions. It was a staple in some and more of a treat in others. 

The accounts of travelers in the area mention that sarana was:

  • used to make spiced milk puddings
  • dried and used to make flour for "bread"
  • mixed with animal fat and stuffed into intestines to make a type of sausage for journeys
  • dried and stored for the winter
  • made into a thick porridge
  • boiled and "eaten like rice"
  • dried and put into fish and meat stews
  • packed into fish flour dough and fried or made into pancakes
  • steamed and served with berries
  • cooked and served whole with fish or birds
  • used as offerings to spirits alongside spruce and labrador tea

It was mainly gathered by women, who made special tools to dig it out. When it was too cold to dig it out, they could also find large high-quality stores in vole (or other rodent) nests, making sure to leave something in return so that the voles would survive the winter and be able to harvest again next year. Georg Wilhelm Steller, who witnessed this in the 1700s, noted that it resembled a form of trade.

Sarana bulbs could also be steamed and served with berries. According to Krasheninnikov this was the best and foremost dish in Kamchatka. In his view, it was “both sweet and sour at the same time” and it filled the stomach well. “It can be consumed every day, which makes one almost forget the lack of bread”,
says Krasheninnikov (1819: II: 314)... The taste of cooked sarana has been compared to sweet or baked chestnut. Adolph Erman found the taste of sarana delicious. He describes sarana bulbs as excellent food (Erman 1848: III: 161). According to Karl von Ditmar, who calls it “pagan food”, the taste is similar to potato… Bread did not belong to the traditional diet of northern Eurasia. Ditmar correctly observed that the local people did not even miss bread. Bread was (and still is) in comparison extremely important in the European diets and was only partly replaced by potatoes in the 19th century. The lack of bread, potatoes and other familiar food seems to have bothered many of the travellers in Siberia. They were not capable of enjoying the local diet except for some dishes. The boiled bulbs of sarana and other plants were seen as more or less exotic, “pagan”, disgusting, strange or, in rare cases, surprisingly tasty. In general the travellers held a distanced attitude towards local food, which made them unable to correctly estimate the significance of sarana for the Kamchatkan diet.

In many areas of Siberia, game is pretty low in fat. If you've ever tried to eat mainly fish and lean game, it's very much understandable why sarana was so worth the trouble. 

It's also understandable why such traditions have died out, as there are many flower bulbs that are quite poisonous and gathering them was probably a skill passed down through the generations.  

Unfortunately, many traditions like these died out before people could really study them, which is a real shame. I've met arctic people who believe that wheat bread is a "traditional" food. But the remnants cast skepticism on the idea that arctic or ice age diets were just a bunch of big game. 

11/27/2011 - 22:49

 I just moved to Chicago recently and have been settling into my new job and new apartment (in Lincoln Park), so that's the cause of most of the silence recently. In the meantime, I've been enjoying some music. I'm a huge fan of a type of music called joiking, which is a traditional Sami style of singing that is mainly wordless chants. I mentioned Torgeir Vassvik in another post, who has a traditional album and a jazz-fusion (very popular in that region) album. Here are two joik bands I've been listening to. One is Adjagas, which has kind of a rootsy folk sound:

Another is Wimme, who uses an electronica background:

From another part of the Arctic, comes this deer song involving throat singing from the Even tribe of Siberia. Someone in a comment mentioned that the only polar people whose diets we can study are the Inuit, which is not true. There are many circumpolar indigenous peoples. In Siberia (a massive part of the world) there are several tribes that have been poorly studied in the past, but there is some interesting research coming out of there right now. I keep meaning to read The Reindeer People, which is about the Even.

In Siberia, shamans combine a distinctive imagery of reindeer and of bird-flight. Their costumes sometimes include imitation reindeer antlers, occasionally tipped with wings or feathers, placed on the headdress or attached to the shoulders at the very point where reindeer are tattooed on the Pazyryk mummies. Like the participants in the Eveny midsummer ritual, shamans may ride to the sky on a bird or a reindeer. But their relationship with these animals goes far beyond mere riding. One shaman is suckled by a white reindeer during his initiatory vision as he incubates in a bird's nest on a branch high in the tree that links earth and sky. Another becomes a reindeer himself by wearing its hide, while hunters with miniature bows and arrows surround him and mime the act of killing. The hide is then stretched across the broad, flat drum that the shaman will beat as accompaniment to his trance. Another shaman, seeking to consecrate his reindeer-skin drum, is guided by spirits as he combs through the forest to find the location where the reindeer was born and traces every place it has ever visited over the course of its life, right up to the point where it was killed. As he picks his way through bogs and over fallen branches, he picks up the scattered material traces of its existence — snapped twigs, dried dung — to gather together every possible part of its being, and then moulds them into a small effigy of the reindeer. When he sprinkles the effigy with a magical ‘water of life’, the drum comes to life. Like a reindeer itself but with enhanced power, it is now capable of bearing the shaman aloft with its throbbing beat to nine, twelve, or more levels of the heavens.
 

I also enjoyed this throat singing from Eivor, an artist from the Faroe Islands:

 If throat-singing and joiking just aren't your thing, here is a baffling and gorgeous music video I've been enjoying from a indie folk band called Phosphorescent:

12/24/2010 - 14:48

A lovely gallery of Siberian nomadic reindeer herders

This project is about nomadic tribes of reindeer herders in my homeland, the Republic of Yakutia, which is located in eastern Siberia.

There are five nationalities of reindeer herders that live on the territory of the Republic: Even, Evenk, Yukagir, Chukchi and Dolgan. All of them are smaller populations, for instance the total number of Yukagir in the world at this moment is only 1509 people.

During the period of one year I traveled with reindeer herders in different parts of Yakutia. I witnessed a unique culture that almost has not changed for centuries.

In the age of urbanization and technological progress these people have maintained an ability to live in complete harmony with nature and each other.

I've been meaning to read The Reindeer People, which is about these herders, for awhile.

Merry Christmas or whatever you celebrate!

-Melissa

12/22/2010 - 00:44

Hmmm...just got done doing chores and it's time for bed? Nope, it's time to disobey Robb Wolf's wise advice about sleep and continue December's theme of heroes gone wrong.

Today it's Vilhjalmur Steffansson, Arctic explorer who unintionally became a low-carb hero because of his experiments with an all-meat diet and his books on life with the Inuit.

Apparently he was also a sociopathic liar and it's quite astonishing he managed to keep up his reputation over the years, though there was plenty written about him during his time that was critical. That's because he led or planned two notably disastrous expedition and afterward engaged in nefarious behavior to cover up his wrong-doings. But he was charismatic and even people who had suffered under him remained loyal.

One of the disastrous expeditions was to a small island on the coast of Siberia called Wrangel Island. He sent four men to claim it for Great Britain. Problem is that the men weren't so experienced and Great Britain didn't even want the island! Along with the men went a Inuit woman named Ada Blackjack. I just finished an excellent book about her.

She was an acculturated Inuit, which means she had spent her life in a town eating white people's foods like bread. She did know how to sew though and the men brought her along to keep them outfitted, which was important on the cold and desolate island. Ada took the job because her son was suffering from tuberculosis and the money would help pay for a good hospital.

VS said that life in the "friendly arctic" would be easy and that he'd be back to pick them up and resupply the new colony next year.

Two years later, a ship finally arrived. Ada and the expedition's cat were the only ones left.

Admittedly the young men made mistakes. One of them overcooked all his meat and didn't realize he had scurvy until it was too late. The others went for help and supplies. Their fate remains unknown.

But thing's weren't like VS told them. At first game was plentiful, but the next winter it was scarce and starvation became a reality. Thick ice blocked any ships from arriving. When the three men went for help, they left Ada and Lorne Knight, the man suffering from scurvy. Soon Lorne died and Ada was left by herself. Amazingly, she taught herself to hunt and managed to survive. She had nothing to keep her company besides a cat and a Bible. Her desire to get back home to her son keeps her going on the lonely and desolate island. Her story is incredible and I couldn't put this book down and missed my subway stop because of it.

The part that was less fun starts when the rescue ship finally arrives. The boy's families struggle with VS and the rescue's commander for the diaries left behind. Both VS and the commander wanted to use them for profit and spin their contents to suit their stories. Ada is a reluctant star and simply wants to live a quiet life with her son, but she struggles financially and with the memories of the tragedy on the island.

If you are interested in adventure books I'd definitely recommend picking up a copy.

02/10/2010 - 13:38

 It's too bad my parents didn't know what I know now. What I know is that children and humans in general don't need vegetables to be healthy. ALL the nutrients in vegetables are present in meat and are more bioavailable in meat. While I enjoy eating vegetables myself, I now know that it's unnecessary to force them down the throats of children who are only following their humans instincts to avoid bitter-tasting foods (though the sensitivity varies from person to person and is genetic), which in the wild were often poisonous. That instinct, that kept generations of our ancestors alive, is now something to be punished. Parents spend untold amounts of time trying to force vegetables on their children and on cookbooks purporting to be able to get children to eat vegetables. Some kids love vegetables and it's great if they do, but it's not a tragedy if they don't.

Why? Plenty of people eat nothing but meat and don't suffer from obesity or other diseases parents warn their children they will get if they don't eat broccoli. If anything, parents should encourage their children to eat fat, which luckily most children instinctually like. Looking back at my childhood, I definitely did suffer from sicknesses all the time. My family blamed it on the fact I didn't eat vegetables, rather than my love for biscuits, crackers, and other processed goo. By some miracle I always had shiny hair and glowing skin though, which is probably because I did love fat. I especially always loved chicken skin. It wasn't until I started eating things like Kashi cereal and Nutrigrain bars and less fat that I had problems with weight gain, acne, and hair loss. I traded one type of stomach problem for another. 

So encourage kids to eat fat and don't worry if they don't love spinach. The sugar conundrum is a more difficult one, since sugar is a pervasive food in kiddie culture from birthday parties to school lunches. A few weeks ago I was walking down the street and saw a man pushing a stroller. His kid was merrily chewing on some candy and was holding a large bag of it. They pulled alongside another woman pushing a stroller and the man said loudly "Hey, want some gummy bears." The woman looked at him angrily and said "No, my daughter is allergic." I guess that's one strategy...

02/06/2010 - 14:19

 

If you want to see some beautiful photos of traditional fish eating in a Gwich'in camp, look here, though keep in mind that at the time these pictures were taken, this tribe was eating modern foods.

Lately health blogger Matt Stone has been creating a bit of a controversy in paleo circles by blaming thyroid issues on low carbing. There is no question that many long term low carbers and paleo dieters suffer from thyroid issues . Why? Arctic cultures like the Inuit, Koyoukon, Yupik, Sami, and many others have a traditional diet that is very low in carbohydrates. Many people have written about how healthy they are despite following a diet that's not exactly the USDA food pyramid. 

I think it's pretty clear that the problems people are having are not due to a lack of cornbread. What all the healthy arctic people had in common was that they consumed a wealth of marine foods ranging from seal liver to seaweed. Marine foods have nutrients all of us could benefit from. Traditional cultures not only ate fish, they ate whole fish: fish eyes, liver, and bones. This stuff is a hard sell to those of us who grew up eating the typical American diet, but it's definitely worth getting used to eating, as the arctic explorers did. 

Arctic explorer and low carb idol Vilhjalmur Stefansson forced himself to like fish, as he recounts in his interesting book online:

Until I was twenty seven I had the belief about myself that I could not eat fish and felt certain that its taste was obnoxious to me. I thought it an interesting peculiarity and assumed that everyone else would think so and there were few things I told about so often as the fact that I was peculiar in that I could not eat fish. I think I might have lost the notion sooner if it had not formed such an excellent topic of conversation 

 

I've said it many times: if your paleo or low carb diet is a bunch of ground meat and some chicken breasts, you probably need to rethink things. As far as the carb controversy, it's a rather old one. The Weston A. Price Foundation has been criticizing the paleo diet for not including traditional dairy and fermented grain/legume products. In his books food ecologist Gary Nabhan recounts how Native American tribes like the Pima never suffered from obesity on their traditional high carb diet.  Born To Run recounts the impressive athletic fears of the corn-loving Tarahumara tribe. The yam eating Kitavans don't have too many problems either. 

But the paleo diet is about more than just not being obese. Plenty of people follow it to heal from autoimmune conditions and damage from eating the Standard American Diet. Others follow it to improve athletic performance. The truth is that while traditional agrarian cultures didn't have type II diabetes epidemics, the healthiest bones that anthropologists have found were those of coastal foragers. As Dr. Kurt Harris says "tolerated is not optimal."

Comment?: 14
02/04/2010 - 21:57

 

Image from MARTHA STEWART, she is badass

My fridge is full of jars of creepy goo. At least my roommates thing that. But the truth is that those jars hold liquid gold! I love jars, as they are easy to clean fat off of and don't leech plastic byproducts. But I love what's in those jars more:

  • Stock! Just save your bones and put them in your crockpot with water on low for 24 hours and you get a brew rich in minerals like calcium and delicious savory flavor. Use it to make soups or just drink it! Don't ever throw away bones, even weird ones like pork and buffalo, make decent stock. The fat that floats to the top is good because it forms a cap that keeps the stock fresh for months. Once you break the fat cap, use within a week. If the stock is relatively new, I use it as a fat to saute vegetables for soup in.
  • Pig juice! I make pork belly all the time. I just throw the belly in the crock pot on low overnight with a salt brine. The end result is pork belly, which I brown and eat, and a rich brown liquid. I put it in a jar and the fat floats to the top. The fat can be used to cook anything with, but often I just dump the whole jar in a crock pot with a lean cut of meat like wild boar or pork tenderloin to transform it into something delicious. I used to love lean meat, but since going paleo I realize it is inferior...fortunately pig juice saves it. 
  • Pig jelly! I don't have it anymore, but it was a crock full of rilettes from a farmer friend. Rilettes are delicious lard and delicious meat combined into an unholy medley of wonder and happiness. Spread on some lettuce, seaweed, or some less fortunate cut of meat. 
  • Some buffalo marrow bones from the farmer's market. Put them in a cooking pan with sides and pop them in the oven..or even the toaster oven until the fat melts. Spread it on anything or eat it plan. 
  • Sardines I didn't like. The box said they were delicious, but really they were just fishy. Unfortunately they are healthy and cheap, so I am planning on forcing myself to like them. When people tell me they dislike X healthy food, I often recount how I have gradually forced myself to like various slimy sea creatures because they are so good for me. 

Stefansson also forced himself to like fish, you can read about it in his interesting book online:

Until I was twenty seven I had the belief about myself that I could not eat fish and felt certain that its taste was obnoxious to me. I thought it an interesting peculiarity and assumed that everyone else would think so and there were few things I told about so often as the fact that I was peculiar in that I could not eat fish. I think I might have lost the notion sooner if it had not formed such an excellent topic of conversation 

 

02/03/2010 - 21:57

 

Raw flesh might sound scary, but every traditional healthy culture studied by Weston A. Price ate at least some raw animal products. I was reminded of that when I dug up this article from the Washington Post about raw meat eating in Siberia. Raw meat also has a following in NYC too and I know several people who subsist on over 50% raw. I started doing raw foods as a vegan, but I gradually moved over to raw meat when I found that raw veganism made me feel malnourished and fatigued. That was a time in my life when I had been a little wild and I had probably done some damage to my stomach. I found raw meat, eggs, and fish was about the only thing that I could eat that didn't make me feel like crap. I never fell ill during this time. 

Why don't I eat raw anymore? Well, I certainly eat plenty of raw foods still, primarily oysters, fish, and some grass fed meat. But raw is expensive because you really have to be careful about sourcing and you absorb fewer calories per gram of meat according to Richard Wrangham's book Catching Fire. I'm also a foodie at heart and once my stomach was healed, it was hard for me to find a reason not to eat delicious cooked food. But the raw paleos have some good arguments for their way of eating and it is definitely beneficial to eat some raw food even if it's just an oyster or two. 

There has also been lots of buzz about carnivore-only diets in the paleo community lately. Such diets are traditional and there are numerous instances of healthy peoples like the Inuit who ate that way. Arctic explorer Vilhjalmur Stefansson was perhaps one of the first urban NYC cavemen when he frequented Greenwich Village Salons back in the 1930s. Studying the Inuit, he was amazed to find that there were healthy despite eating a diet of almost 100% flesh. Back in the States, he did a study where he and another explorer agreed to eat only meat for a year to prove anyone could be healthy on such a diet. The diet was a success and he remains an idol to the carnivore community. I suggest everyone check out his excellent books.

I think though that while such diets can be successful, they are not paleo (there is no evidence of completely carnivorous pre-neolithic cultures) and not necessarily appropriate for everyone. In the long term, Inuit suffer from osteoporosis, probably because of excessive amounts of protein. There are some genetic differences that appear to allow them to eat their diet more successfully. Carnivore is just one option to investigate if other diets don't work, but it can be a difficult road and perhaps it's not so optimal for the long term. 

Either way, there is much we can learn from cultures like the Inuit. Here are several rules I have gleaned

  • Eat both marine and land animals
  • Eat LOTS of fat and enjoy it!
  • Eat at least some of your meat and fish raw
  • Eat nose to tail...marrow, brains, eyeballs, and all the nasty bits
01/08/2010 - 16:31

An anthropological study of an arctic tribe written in narrative form, this is a beautiful book that fleshes out aspects of life that are often ignored even by those who follow primal diets. Food is more than just survival, it has important spritual aspects that tie it to us and the places we live.

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