recipes

06/17/2010 - 21:08

Yeah, it's my party and I get to be a dessert-making paleo deviant if I want to. For my birthday I decided to make some ice cream from The Ice Dream Cookbook. I first heard about this cookbook on The Healthy Cooking Coach, a blog by chef Rachel Albert-Matesz. Her husband Don writes another excellent blog called Primal Wisdom.

Yes, I know paleolithic humans didn't have ice cream, but sometimes we need to indulge. When I started doing paleo I tried a handful of paleo dessert recipes, with uniformly terrible results. It mostly involved dumping a bag of $12 nut flour in with some eggs and a pitiful amount of honey. The results were uniformly like insipid heavy omelettes. Maybe I just can't follow recipes to save my life. That coupled with the fact that I'm not exactly the best photographer in the world contribute to me posting relatively little on the subject.

But I tried Ice Dream and it's very good and while it might not be perfect, for those of us with non-paleo family and friends, it's better than serving up some Haagan Daaz. The basic idea is it's coconut milk made creamy and custardy with gelatin or agar and then sweetened with a variety of sweetener options coupled with stevia.

I hadn't liked stevia before this. Stevia, for the uninitiated, is a non-caloric sweetner made from the leaves of a shrub. It's sweet....but it also has a bit of a bitter aftertaste, especially to a super-taster like me. By itself, it tastes kind of horrible to me. But now that I've made some of the recipes from the Ice Dream cookbook I realize the secret it to pair it with small amounts of more delicious sweet things and other strong flavors. I've only made a few flavors from the book, but mango was one of the best. I couldn't taste the stevia at all.

The other sweeteners you pair stevia with are fruit, honey, maple syrup, or the less-preferable agave (because it's basically HFCS and has now been banished from the health foodie community). Yes, that does mean that there are carbs, but nearly half of commercial coconut milk ice creams and without nasty additives like carraggean.

A great thing about this dessert for me at least is that it's really satisfying. I didn't feel the need to eat much. It's sweet enough to be a birthday treat, but not too sweet.

You can try some of the recipes and see some luscious photos at Yasmeen Health Nut and Diet, Dessert, and Dogs.

05/30/2010 - 13:37

The seminal cookbook on cooking offal. Many of the recipes are perfectly easy for the home cook- particular those for heart and bone marrow.

05/20/2010 - 19:55

Yesterday I face two cooking fears: small fish and frying. I was at the Union Square Farmer's market with a paleo friend yesterday. At the Blue Moon fishery booth I was about to get some sort of inoffensive seafood, maybe scallops. But then I saw my friend order something that was an unappetizing pinkish grey. It was monkfish liver. Not to be outdone in the adventurous eating department, I looked for something slightly more appetizing. My eyes alighted on a barrel of small iridescent blue fish with pearly eggs spilling out of their guts.

"What are those?" I asked. The fisherman answered "sparing." I had no idea what that was, but I ordered half a pound. It was a mere $2, but instantly I felt regret. What would I do with those? I'd never even heard of sparing.

Apparently they are smelt. Which I'd heard of, but never tasted. When I visited Madrid last year I had many fresh delicious sardines and anchovies, which I found much tastier than the canned varieties, but since then I haven't eaten many tiny fish. 

I didn't eat fish until I was 18 or so and didn't cook it until I was 19. My family always ate fish, but I thought it was absolutely disgusting and only fit for cats. I forced myself to eat fish when I went paleo because of the convincing literature on the health benefits. I definitely didn't like it and pretty much did my best to drown it in heavily-spiced sauces. Since then I've tried different types of fish slowly and always with trepidation. I've fallen in love with shellfish, but my relationship with oily fish is a little less stable. I usually try fish for the first time at restaurants, because at least they sort of know what they are doing...right?

Either way, I was stuck with these smelt and wasn't about to waste them. According to my Google searches...eating the whole thing was recommended. Pretty scary...the thought of eyeballs and brains and ugh.

Per some tips on paleohacks, I washed and dried the smelt, then dipped then in egg, and then in a mixture of coconut flour, almond meal, and my favorite spices. I'm pretty cautious about frying, but a good method I've found is just to use lots of heat, but protect yourself with a lid from the popping oil. I fried the fish in a couple of tablespoons of ghee until they were crispy. Then I seasoned then with a dash of salt and a pinch of lime.

And I ate them. I'd never eaten a whole entire fish before, but these were delicious. I totally forgot about eyeballs and other nasty bits. They were crispy and mild. I dipped some in my delicious homemade mayo and they were perfect. It's great to add another healthy, cheap, and fairly easy food to my recipe box!

05/02/2010 - 16:45

I recently made a big change to this site's newsletter. Previously, it was a Google Feedburner newsletter than went out every time a new post came up. Now I'll be managing it myself. It will go out once a week and feature this weeks posts, as well as bonus content like my favorite links and recipes! Subscribe on the sidebar or with this form.

What's Cooking? 

One of my new favorite snacks is sweet potatoes cut into fries and then baked. Then I dip them in this delicious duck-fat aioli! Substitute a cold-pressed fruit oil for canola of course. Duck fat aioli also goes well on salads or with grilled asparagus if you are not into carbs :)

The Healthy Cooking Coach posted a delicious looking recipe for jerk pork ribs with crunchy kale. I can't wait to try it! I'm also hoping to try my hand at savory Japanese custard this week. How about meyer lemon chicken and asparagus? Or garlic and rosemary roast lamb? Or some lovely raw tuna poke salad?

What's Interesting?

From vegan to subsistence hunter, Tundra Topics explores the sticky topic of eating "cute" animals. Another great vegan turned hunter blog is A Mindful Carnivore.

Check out John Durant's new website!

Are worms bad for us? 

Supplements, they just aren't as good as foods.

Vegetarian Lies. And Why Animals Don't Have Rights.

Circumcision: It's Dumb.

Antibiotics and Disease.

Where to shop for raw milk near NYC.

Atkins and Paleo...what's the difference?

04/26/2010 - 14:17

While I've enjoyed eating mostly local meat this winter, I'm very excited to see fresh early spring foods at the farmer's market. My new favorite are ramps, which are a tiny wild leek with a tiny season. They can be hard to find, but in Manhattan Union Square Market has then for $3 a bunch. Milder than most other members of the allium family, ramps taste a little to me like a more savory and succulent version of garlic. Ramps are all flavor with none of garlic's harsh tones. The Spotted Pig does an excellent braise of them with rabbit, but they work well with nearly any meat and are simple to cook.

Here I drew on asparagus, another extremely delicious early-spring vegetable that has the magical ability to become crispy and absorb the flavors of the fat it is cooked with. That meat was my farmer friend's homemade pancetta, which was made with the best black peppercorns I have ever tasted. I sauteed the asparagus and pancetta in The Piggery's lard, then added the finely sliced white parts of the ramps. Once the asparagus was browned, I added some local wine for a splash of acidity, but you can add lemon juice or some good vinegar. Then I added the sliced green leaf tops of the ramps with a smattering of herbs grown on my windowsill. When everything looked nice and tender, I put it in a bowl and topped with ghee and sea salt. If you do dairy this would have been excellent with a good shaved cheese.

The whole dish is amazing- brown crispy asparagus flavored with the smoked pancetta, which was also crispy and melted in my mouth. The ramps added a whole new dimension of savory flavor to an already wonderful dish. Go get them before they are gone! It's not like you can buy them imported from Peru in December.

100% Local. 100% Delicious.

BTW if you are looking for paleo-friendly eats in NYC, don't forget to check out my new paleo map. It's in beta, so contact me if you have any additions.

04/01/2010 - 19:14

Surprisingly enough, many people write to me asking what I eat and where I get it. I think it's boring, but I guess it's useful for many people, especially if you live in NYC. I haven't been good at posting the rest of my week, but here are some things I've been eating!

  • Delicious salad with argula, iceberg lettuce, and beets. The most important thing was the calorie-loaded tangy paleo green goddess dressing. I had the real stuff at a restaurant recently and couldn't get enough. I made mine with fresh scallions, mayo, basil, lemon, garlic, salt, and pepper. I used this recipe as a base and just left out the sour cream, but if you can eat that and you have a good source...it's really good. The only questionable ingredient was the anchovy paste, but I left it in because I was feeling great and it's only a small amount. I bought all the ingredients at Whole Foods, which I only go to occasionally because it's expensive and inconsistant.
  • More shrimp poached in butter, but this time I also added virgin coconut oil, cilantro, and basil. I poured the whole thing on top of cubed mango for a delicious fruity shrimp salad. The shrimp were from the Park Slope Co-op, which is also inconsistant, but fortunately at least they are relatively cheap...
  • A roasted cornish hen from Bobo sold at the Park Slope Co-op. I spatchcocked it and cooked it in the toaster oven because it's so much quicker. I seasoned it with garlic and oregano. Spatchcocking might seem scary, but since the chicken lies flat it cooks pretty fast. The main point is just to remove the spine. Once you have that out, you can figure out how to cut to lie it flat without much technical direction. When I first tried it I just confused myself watching Youtube videos.
  • Simple grassfed ground buffalo from the Park Slope co-op sauteed with coconut oil and herbs is a staple of mine. You'll notice most of these items are from the Co-op. I go there at the beginning of the week and sometimes it will feed me until Thursday. If not, I sometimes order Freshdirect or go to Whole Foods. The co-op is good for some things, bad for others. Seafood is particularly bad there. I like the frozen wild salmon filets, but they don't have too much else and you can only eat so much of those before you get sick of them. On Saturday I try to go to the Farmer's Market at Union Square. I like the fish and the variety of meats, but everything really is very expensive, so I definitely don't get very much there.
  • Kale salad with some REALLY good sauteed mushrooms from the co-op. Most of the produce there is good, except for the Thai Young Coconuts, which are frequently spoiled.
  • I made some pastured local lamb (also from the co-op) in homemade coconut milk with herbs, ginger, and garlic. Making coconut milk from a brown coconut took me nearly an hour and I probably won't do it again anytime soon. I'm trying to avoid canned things, but it probably would have been easier to get a thai coconut (Freshdirect has the best)and make the curry from the flesh, which is very soft and easy to work with.

What delicious foods have you been eating lately? Where are you getting your ingredients?

03/29/2010 - 21:58

 

 

Butter Poached Shrimp

Butter poaching is a simple and gentle method to make quick and delicious seafood! First bring a little water (1-2 TBSP) to a boil), reduce heat to low,  and whisk in A LOT of butter/ghee...as much butter/ghee as you want to eat! Then mix in your favorite fresh flavors like lemon zest or crushed garlic. Add the shrimp and cook through. Season with lemon juice and bit of salt. 

Bone Marrow Watercress Salad

Buy some marrow bones from a good butcher...they should have plenty of white fat in the middle. Put them in a toaster oven or oven on 400F or so in a pan that will catch any fat that comes out. While they are cooking, wash the watercress and dress it with lemon juice, some chopped basil, and chopped shallots OR garlic. When the marrow bones are soft inside, scoop out or loosen the marrow with a knife into the watercress and mix around. Salt to taste. 

Bone Stock Butternut Squash Soup

Save the bones from the above dish and put them in a stock or crock pot with some chopped shallots or onions, carrots or celery, and lemon juice. Simmer for several hours, the longer the better. Strain the stock and put it in the fridge, once cooled skim off the fat. Peel and cube the butternut squash and boil it in the stock. When the squash is soft, add your favorite herbs like basil. Puree with a hand blender if you like your soup smooth, salt to taste. 

 

 

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