Cordain's New Cookbook

On a whim, I purchased Cordain's new cookbook on my Kindle recently.

In it he mentions that he buys whole sides of beef from a local farmer, which I applaud. In fact, I'd love to be in Cordain's cow-share, because it seems that he is still maintaining a bit of a fat phobia. Exhibit 1: Foods You Should Avoid: candy, sugar, soft drinks, lamb chops...wait??? Lamb chops? Yes, Cordain still says to avoid fatty meats like turkey legs, pork ribs, pork chops, fatty beef roasts, T-bones steaks, etc. What does he do with those cuts in his cow share? Throw them away?

I understand that wild animals do generally have less fat than domestic animals, but even grass-fed animals have plenty of fat. If you are truly eating as our ancestors did, nose to tail, you are going to eat both lean and fatty meats.

But according to this cookbook " the foundation of the Paleo Diet is high-quality, low-fat protein foods, don’t feel guilty about eating lean meat, poultry, fish, or seafood at every meal—it is precisely what you need to do, along with adding as many fresh fruits and vegetables as you like."

On his recommended foods list is "LEAN POULTRY (white meat, skin removed)." In a chicken recipe he says "Drain excess fat from pan and return pan to burner." Jesus wept.

Processed meats are bad because "they are synthetic mixtures of meat and fat; they are artificially combined at the meatpacker or butcher’s whim with no consideration for the actual fatty acid profile of the wild animals our Stone Age ancestors ate." And skinless chicken breast cooked in olive oil is just like the fatty acid profile of wild animals?

Eggs? "So go ahead and enjoy this highly nutritious food; just don’t overdo it."

Yes, he recommends cooking with olive oil, which is a great way to ruin good oil, since olive oil has lots of delicate omega-6s. Not to mention the flavors of a good oil are destroyed by heat. At least he no longer recommends the vile canola oil. This piece of info was useful:

Since the publication of the first edition of The Paleo Diet in 2002, I have reversed my position on canola oil and can no longer endorse its consumption. Canola oil comes from the seeds of the rape plant (Brassica rapa or Brassica campestris), which is a relative of the broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and kale family. Undoubtedly, humans have eaten cabbage and its relatives since before historical times, and I still strongly support the consumption of these health-promoting vegetables. Nevertheless, the concentrated oil from Brassica seeds is another story. In its original form, rape plants produced a seed oil that contained elevated levels (20 to 50 percent) of erucic acid (a monounsaturated fatty acid labeled 22:1n9). Erucic acid is toxic and causes tissue damage in many organs of laboratory animals. In the early 1970s, Canadian plant breeders developed a strain of rape plant that yielded a seed with less than 2 percent erucic acid (thus the name canola oil). The erucic acid content of commercially available canola oil averages 0.6 percent. Despite its low erucic acid content, a number of experiments in the 1970s showed that even at low concentrations (2.0 and 0.88 percent), canola oil fed to rats could still elicit minor heart scarring that was considered pathological. A series of recent rat studies of low-erucic canola oil conducted by Dr. Ohara and colleagues at the Hatano Research Institute in Japan reported kidney injuries, increases in blood sodium levels, and abnormal changes in the hormone aldosterone, which regulates blood pressure. Other harmful effects of canola oil consumption in animals (at 10 percent of their total calories) included decreased litter sizes, behavioral changes, and liver damage. A number of recent human studies of canola and rapeseed oil by Dr. Poiikonen and colleagues at the University of Tempere in Finland showed it to be a potent allergen in adults and children that causes allergic cross-reactions from other environmental allergens. Based on these brand-new findings in both humans and animals, I prefer to err on the safe side and can no longer recommend canola oil in the modern-day Paleo Diet.

He notes the curious fact that coconut oil doesn't seem so bad, but can't seem to admit that it's because saturated fat isn't bad:

Strangely enough, traditional cultures that consume coconut foods have little or no heart disease, stroke, or other cardiovascular problems normally associated with eating saturated fats (such as the lauric acid found in coconuts). Although we don’t completely understand this inconsistency, it may be due to lauric acid’s positive antibacterial effect in the gut.

It's a bright spot in a book that highlights the main defect in the paleo diet movement: disconnect from tradition. We don't know what Stone Age people really ate. They are all dead. The science lab has some lessons, but it becomes plainly obvious that many paleo professors would be baffled by the wild. It's interesting to contrast this book with Plants That We Eat, by Anore Jones, who lived with the Inuit for 19 years. That book deserves its own post, but while wild animals don't have good marbling, it's clear they have fat. Enough to use to preserve greens and berries, enough to make  "agutuk" ice cream with caribou fat, enough to have jars and jars of the stuff, as I do from my "lean" grass fed lamb. Lean is relative. And there is a lot of bias in our culture because we discard the fat of venison, for example, because of its "unpleasant" taste.

Cordain notes that "hunter-gatherers typically ate the entire animal—brains, eyeballs, tongue, marrow, liver, kidneys, intestines, gonads—whereas these organs are unappetizing to most of us." But chicken breast cooked in olive oil is not a replacement for marrow! 

Overall I really wanted to like this book. Cordain seems like a great guy and it's clear he makes an effort to feed his entire family well. It's funny that when I was tired I misread his recipe for Monterey Mushrooms as being for Monastic Mushrooms. I think the diet he prescribes is unnecessarily ascetic due to his bias against saturated fat. There are some recipes I will be trying, like the "tamales" made with squash, but overall I think the diet he eats could be more nourishing with the addition of more fat and organs.

Comments

I cook with butter and or

I cook with butter and or coconut oil. I am about 90 per cent paleo as I think butter is wonderful in the diet. Paleo should be a solid foundation to build of, not a DOGMA the way vegaterians use theirs.

EGGS, eat plenty

Fear the bread not the butter.

Wild animals don't have the

Wild animals don't have the intra-muscular fat -- the so-called "marbling" effect -- that you see in grain-fed, factory-farmed animals. Their muscles are lean, and thus the recommendation to eat lean meat. Yes, wild arctic animals like seal, polar bear and caribou have extra fat stores, but it's presence in those cases doesn't mean that it's good for you. Also note that grain-fed animal fat is different from wild animal fat and likely has a different effect on your body.

As for coconut oil, despite all of the anecdotes, researchers routinely use it to induce atherosclerosis in mice.

http://www.google.com/search?q=LDL+mice+coconut+oil

One can argue that building up arterial plaques in itself does not cause heart attacks, but you're taking a big gamble if you ignore the vast body of research that associates saturated fat consumption to heart disease. Moderation, as with all things, is prudent.

Also, humans are not mice.

Also, humans are not mice.

You should read my friend Chris' letter to the editor on coconut oil
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/17466237

I didn't see a letter to the

I didn't see a letter to the editor at that link, but ironically it is a study on humans whose conclusion argues my point:

"Consumption of a saturated fat reduces the anti-inflammatory potential of HDL and impairs arterial endothelial function…"

I love your captcha, btw.

Quoth Chris   Nicholls et

Quoth Chris

 

Nicholls et al. (1) found an increased expression of adhesion molecules intracellular adhesion molecule (ICAM)-1 and vascular cell adhesion molecule (VCAM)-1 in human umbilical vein endothelial cells incubated with high-density lipoprotein taken from subjects eating a meal rich in coconut oil and a decreased expression of these molecules in cells incubated with high-density lipoprotein taken from subjects eating a meal rich in safflower oil (1). The authors attributed this effect to the fatty acid composition of the oils; since the oils used were unrefined, however (D. Celermajer and J. Harmer, personal communication, August 2006), a possible role for constituents other than fatty acids must be considered.

Compared to coconut oil per unit mass, safflower oil contains 77 times the alpha-tocopherol, more than 100 times the gamma-tocopherol, and 73 times the total tocopherol (2).

Vitamin E down-regulates the expression of ICAM-1 (3). Fan et al. (4) found that the incubation of human umbilical vein endothelial cells with alpha-tocopherol, gamma-tocopherol, or mixed tocopherols inhibited the induction of ICAM-1 expression by oxidized low-density lipoprotein in a dose-dependent manner, although it did not inhibit the induction of ICAM-1 expression by recombinant human C-reactive protein (4). Vitamin E suppressed ICAM-1 and VCAM-1 levels in a rabbit model of hypercholesterolemia (5) and in a rat model of heart transplantation (6). The effect on VCAM-1, however, was statistically significant only in the rat model and not in the rabbit model.

The respective vitamin E concentrations of the oils may therefore have contributed to their observed differential effects on ICAM-1 and VCAM-1 expression. Future research should investigate the relative contribution of fatty acid composition and micronutrient composition to this effect.

With this in mind, I try to consume coconut oil with other foods that have Vitamin E for example. I also try my best to not be a mouse or a rabbit.

OK so further study should

OK so further study should examine other (non-lipid) constituents of the oils. That does not alter the fact that coconut oil increased LDL in humans.

It sounds like supplementing with Vitamin E is a good idea.

You must have missed the

You must have missed the point here. The point is that they were eating very fatty parts like marrow and brain. Marbling doesn't matter if they aren't eating much muscle meat anyway. The lions got that.

Are you saying that the

Are you saying that the brains and marrow of wild animals are nutritionally equivalent to the fatty grocery-store cuts of grain-fed factory farm animals? I find that hard to swallow (hah).

No, I'm saying that they were

No, I'm saying that they were equivalent to the marrow I had for dinner tonight from a completely grass-fed lamb. Lean is a relative matter. Even game I eat is more fatty than the stuff Cordain recommends, though certainly less fatty than grain-fed animals.

I don't think chicken breast cooked in olive oil is anywhere close to paleo...

Cordain did not pull the

Cordain did not pull the recommendation to eat only lean meats out of his arse. He measured the actual fat content in the carcasses of African animals. He even took into account that hunter gatherers preferred to kill the fattest animals. It's all in his latest published article. The Innuit lived in the Arctic, our Palaeolithic ancestors did not. In the new edition of the Paleo Diet, he also says that the Innuit had atherosclerotic plaques, even though they were asymptomatic. He doesn't think saturated fat is going to kill you, but neither should you eat large amounts of it. People used to be paranoid about eating any amount of saturated fat, but now it's just the opposite, the more you get, the better. Why does it always have to be so extreme?

I've read that paper and if

I've read that paper and if you had any of those animals in that paper in your kitchen, you would have plenty of fat! Besides, that he didn't take seasonality into account- all animals were from the autumn.

I've also read the Inuit paper and that's unconvincing too...the Inuit lived in tiny smoky dwelling...the equivalent of smoking a pack a day!

I'm also post-paleo in that I believe we have evolved since leaving Africa. There is significant evidence that those of us descended from northern Europeans have different genes.

"I've read that paper and if

"I've read that paper and if you had any of those animals in that paper in your kitchen, you would have plenty of fat!"
Yes, but lean animals have more monounsaturated fat than palmitate. Marbled beef is rich in palmitate.

"Besides, that he didn't take seasonality into account- all animals were from the autumn."
Seasons are much less well defined in Africa than in temperate countries.

Be careful who you speak for.

Be careful who you speak for. There's a taqueria down the street, has eyeball tacos, brain tacos, intestine, tongue, all kinds of things that I'm not going to eat, can't even put into English, but many seem to like just fine. More relevant, though I'm not paleo, I'm fascinated to watch and see how long it's going to take saturated fat to become mainstream. I love butter and bacon, though not much of a carnivore in general, otherwise. My family is still very low fat, and whisper amongst themselves about my impending heart disease. I just shrug.

You are missing out :) I LOVE

You are missing out :) I LOVE tongue tacos! SO GOOD. If you had told 19 year old me that I'd be eating such things I'd be horrified.

Cordain is trying to squeeze

Cordain is trying to squeeze as much profit out of paleo diet's popularity that he can. Note the selling of any article possible on his website.

He has his new cookbook listed on the Low Fat bestseller's list at Amazon, where it is ranked #2 as I write this. This would be the diet list where the action is.

There are some diet books that put themselves on both the Low Fat and Low Carb bestseller lists. I guess those authors are promoting rabbit starvation.

It seems that, if someone

It seems that, if someone were eating Cordain's style of paleo, their carbohydrate intake would have to be fairly substantial to provide a fuel source to make up for lack of fat. We don't run on protein.
I don't do "low" carb either (at least not most of the time) but, due to a lower carb intake (like, well below 150 gms/day, which is still plenty!) I'm fairly keto-adapted. If I were to eat Cordain's way, I'd be hungry all the time!

That's exactly what happened

That's exactly what happened to me with Cordain's way. I was hungry all of the time! I'm also not a zero-carb or minimal carb eater. I try to keep it to around 100g per day from fruits and veggies.

speaking of cookbooks (a

speaking of cookbooks (a stretch, i know) - have you looked at Krasner's "Good Meat"? Thoughts?

http://amzn.to/igE0Z0

Thanks for this thoughtful

Thanks for this thoughtful book report.
My question is how do you like the format of a cookbook on the Kindle?
I considered buying this book on kindle too and wasn't sure how I would like it...now reconsidering...

The standard western diet is

The standard western diet is the cause of many woes. Lowcarb diets are a common response to the problems caused. But eating truly paleo should be more than eating entire cows. Like wild animals the human animal never ate enough to become heavy. Saturated fats may have been prized because there was so little of it found in prey. Plus the human animal had to work hard to catch, kill and cook the animal.

A better model for living paleo might be to never eat enough to be full, occasionally go without food entirely and spend as much time as possible engaged in physical endeavors.

I tried to eat a whole cow

I tried to eat a whole cow once but I found the horns and hooves gave me heartburn. :-p

Movement that works the whole body is also key. Modern man is extremely lazy and weak for the most part.

You don't just eat a whole

You don't just eat a whole cow 0_o

I'm not a low carber and I do practice fasting.

I've never bought into

I've never bought into Cordain's recommendation to avoid the fattier cuts of meat. What does he think far northern paleolithic hunters living near the glaciers did when hunting after a long winter stuck mostly indoors? I doubt they only brought back the lean cuts. My guess is they would have first favored the energy rich fattier cuts.

To me it's about balance. Sometimes I want meat with lots of fat and sometimes I don't. I let my body tell me what it needs.

Fat-phobia is especially

Fat-phobia is especially ludicrous when you understand that most of the vitamins and nutrients are stored in the animals fat...and some of those vitamins are necessary for the human body to utilize to digest and metabolize protein.

Eating a strict, low-fat diet high in protein will actually deplete your stores of vitamins. An article at the WAPF refers to the case of N. American Indians who suffered "rabbit-starvation."

What about saturated fat?

In fact, the one warning we could give you about meat is not to eat it lean. In spite of claims to the contrary, the diet of the cave man was not one of lean meat. Paleolithic man always ate his meat with fat.

Vilhjalmur Stefansson, who spent many years living with the Eskimos and Indians of Northern Canada, reports that wild male ruminants like elk and caribou carry a large slab of back fat, weighing as much as 40 to 50 pounds. The Indians and Eskimo hunted older male animals preferentially because they wanted this backslab fat, as well as the highly saturated fat found around the kidneys. Other groups used blubber from sea mammals like seal and walrus.

"The groups that depend on the blubber animals are the most fortunate in the hunting way of life," wrote Stefansson, "for they never suffer from fat-hunger. This trouble is worst, so far as North America is concerned, among those forest Indians who depend at times on rabbits, the leanest animal in the North, and who develop the extreme fat-hunger known as rabbit-starvation. Rabbit eaters, if they have no fat from another source—beaver, moose, fish—will develop diarrhea in about a week, with headache, lassitude, a vague discomfort. If there are enough rabbits, the people eat till their stomachs are distended; but no matter how much they eat they feel unsatisfied. Some think a man will die sooner if he eats continually of fat-free meat than if he eats nothing, but this is a belief on which sufficient evidence for a decision has not been gathered in the north. Deaths from rabbit-starvation, or from the eating of other skinny meat, are rare; for everyone understands the principle, and any possible preventive steps are naturally taken."29

Normally, according to Stefansson, the diet consisted of dried or cured meat "eaten with fat," namely the highly saturated cavity and back slab fat that could be easily separated from the animal. Another Arctic explorer, Hugh Brody, reports that Eskimos ate raw liver mixed with small pieces of fat and that strips of dried or smoked meat were "spread with fat or lard."30 Pemmican, a highly concentrated travel food, was a mixture of lean dried buffalo meat and highly saturated buffalo fat. (Buffalo fat, by the way, is more saturated than beef fat.) Less than two pounds of pemmican per day could sustain a man doing hard physical labor. The ratio of fat to protein in pemmican was 80% to 20%. As lean meat from game animals was often given to the dogs, there is no reason to suppose that everyday fare did not have the same proportions: 80% fat (mostly highly saturated fat) to 20% protein—in a population in which heart disease and cancer were nonexistent.

The beef industry has been forced to be apologetic about its product because it's very difficult to get the fat out of beef. You can reduce the fat content by using hormones, but you end up with a product that is tough and tastes terrible, not to mention full of hormones. Beef producers need to recognize that the fat is the most important part of the beef, rich in components that promote good health and that help you utilize the nutrients in all the other parts of the beef. In addition to vitamins A and D, fat contributes many important fatty acids, including palmitoleic acid, an antimicrobial fat that protects us against pathogens in the gut. If you want to be sure that you don't get foodborne illness from your hamburger, use full fat ground beef.

Fat also provides a substance called conjugated linoleic acid or CLA, at least it does if the animals have been on green grass.31 CLA is a substance that protects us against cancer and that promotes weight loss—that's right, fat can make you thin, if it's the right kind of fat.

And the right kind of fat is also saturated fat which, in spite of what we've been told, plays many important roles in the body chemistry. The scientific literature delineates a number of vital roles for dietary saturated fats—they enhance the immune system,32 are necessary for healthy bones,33 provide energy and structural integrity to the cells,34 protect the liver35 and enhance the body's use of essential fatty acids.36 Stearic acid and palmitic acid, found in beef tallow and butter, are the preferred foods for the heart.37 As saturated fats are stable, they do not become rancid easily, do not call upon the body's reserves of antioxidants, do not initiate cancer, do not irritate the artery walls.

In fact saturated beef fat is one of the most useful fats in the culinary repertoire. As it is very stable and doesn't go rancid when heated to high temperatures, it's perfect for frying. While we don't recommend a lot of fried foods, we know that our children and grandchildren are going to eat them. Fast food outlets used to fry their potatoes in healthy stable beef tallow. They were crisp, tasted delicious and provided many important nutrients. But the phony cholesterol issue has forced these outlets to switch to partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, which is known to cause a host of chronic diseases including cancer, heart disease, bone problems, infertility and autoimmune disease.38

While not strictly a Paleo

While not strictly a Paleo book (though she sites Cordain), Nina Planck's "Real Food" talks about the abomination of skinless chicken and egg white omelettes. Her overall take is that there is a reason nature put all that stuff together in one easy to eat package. Cause it is actually good for you.

Thank you for addressing

Thank you for addressing this. I noticed this 'fear of fat' trend when reading over Nell Stephenson's website. When I saw that she was coauthoring the book, I suspected that there would be more of this chicken breast in olive oil nonsense.

I adore Robb Wolf, but recommending his podcasts and book to people has been a bit tricky. I have had a handful of people come back to me questioning his "eat lean meats and good fats" line. Why "lean meats"? Why not say that people should consume good fats from healthy meat? I can understand eating lean meat if someone is eating the crap from the grocery store, but then why not just tell people to eat all the good stuff, including organs and fat, from healthy, pastured animals instead of assuming that people won't go to the effort of sourcing good food? Or am I missing something altogether?

There's this nagging little worry in the minds of some people in this paleo land about consuming fat. It's absurd. I was hoping Dr. Cordain would have updated his previous books with a more generous stance on the consumption of the whole animal. I second your sigh.

During the winter months

During the winter months while fruits and veggies are unavailable our meat sources had nice layers of fat on them. No reason for a fat phobia.

I agree with you sentiments

I agree with you sentiments on olive oil. A good virgin should not be wasted by cooking it.

BTW, I love the new CAPTCHA - LOLz

"whereas these organs are

"whereas these organs are unappetizing to most of us"

So I'm guessing he doesn't like liver, but who is he to assume everyone hates these foods? I know people who love them. I personally have changed my taste buds over the years and do enjoy a lot of organ meats.

Sigh...

Blasphemy! And don't feel

Blasphemy!

And don't feel guilty about eating lean meat??? Have the dietary poles flipped again while I wasn't looking?

Wild animals in times of plenty have plenty of fat, and hunter-gatherers have the sense to cherish it when they can get it. As do I.

Whatever we don't keep on the meat we bring home, we render down and save for cooking later. I'm pretty sure our ancestors would approve.